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  WATER HEATER ELEMENTS FAQs
 
Q: I don’t have hot water. How do I determine what is wrong?
A: Check the breaker or fuse box for a blown fuse or tripped breaker. If this is not the problem, shut off the power to the water heater. (IMPORTANT!) The problem may be caused by a defective or shorted element(s) or thermostat(s) or both. If you are experienced with plumbing and electrical tools, you can do the repairs yourself. If you are at all hesitant, call a plumber or electrician. Camco Mfg., Inc. provides a water heater tester (#10023) that lets you test the elements and thermostats while they remain installed on the heater. Instructions are included.

Q: What causes water heater elements to fail, some sooner than others?
A: Several reasons: power surges, lightning, dry-firing (see below) and lime buildup. Most heaters come with standard high watt-density (HWD) elements. These are the least expensive and are susceptible to these problems. On a “Good-Better-Best” scale the HWD elements are GOOD.

Q: Why are some water heater elements folded back?

A: These are low watt-density (LWD) elements. The heat (watts) per square inch of surface has been lowered by 50% from that of a regular element. In order for total heat to be the same, the total surface has been increased. It is folded back so the length will fit the tank. Not all LWD elements are foldbacks. In areas with “hard” water, a LWD element resists lime buildup on its surface, thus extending its life. These elements are BETTER.

Q: What are Lime Life elements?
A: These elements are BEST. They are made of nickel/stainless steel and are ultra low watt-density. These features prevent lime buildup and extend the life of the element. A Lime Life element is not affected by dry-firing. These elements carry a limited lifetime warranty. Because of the low watt-density, these elements are folded back to reduce the length. Some are rippled to further reduce the length to fit the diameter of the tank.

Q: What is meant by the term “dry-firing?”
A: High watt density and low watt-density elements are designed to function in water. If not surrounded by water, the intense heat they generate (dry fire) will cause them to burn out. The water tank must be full of water whenever the power is on. Dry-fire failure is not covered by any warranty. It is a human error. Dry-fired elements are easily detected. The element is soft and easily bent. In most cases, a hole is burned through the surface.

Q: Can I replace the element in my water heater with elements with higher wattage?
A: It is not recommended. The water heater is designed for that element size. Higher wattage might require heavier gauge wire and a larger capacity circuit breaker.

Q: Why do some elements of the same style, wattage and voltage come in different lengths?
A: Different manufacturers have different designs. The shorter element has a wider diameter tubing; the longer element has a narrower diameter, but heat output is measured by total surface. Both have the same amount of surface and both will fit all standard water heaters. Quality is the same.

Q: Can I use a water heater element in an application other than a water heater?
A: It is not recommended. These elements are designed specifically for residential water heaters. We have no experience or knowledge of other uses. Non-water heater use of our elements and thermostats voids all warranties.

Q: I just installed a water heater element and now my heater makes a humming sound.
A: This is called a “harmonic.” If the element is installed so that the loop is horizontal, the vibration from the electric current will cause the element to hum. This noise can be prevented by installing so that the loop is vertical. The flanged elements have arrows on the flange indicating the vertical position of the loop. To eliminate the humming on screw-in elements, tighten the element another half turn. In some instances, less than a half turn will stop the harmonic.

Q: Why aren’t the two elements operating simultaneously?
A: In most residential water heaters only one element is on at any given time. The lower element does 90% or more of the heating. During periods of heavy use, the upper element switches on (the lower switches off) and heats the upper part of the tank to 120°F. It then shuts off, turns on the lower, and it heats the water to the setting of the lower thermostat.

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